Any tips clues or secrets? I got an old W&B wedge and I just can't get it shving sharp any tips? Thanks.
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Any tips clues or secrets? I got an old W&B wedge and I just can't get it shving sharp any tips? Thanks.
Tape the spine! On some wedges, it will dramatically reduce the amount of metal you need to remove to set the bevel.
Wedges are worth the extra effort.
Yeah a few !!!!
Tape the spine 1 layer for heavy blades 2 layers for true wedges (very rare)
Use a little pressure to get the bevel set on the low grits... "a little"
Most of the time the heels or toes on these need to be pulled into line some are actually warped some seem that way because of all the different bevels and spine wear on them you have to even that all up before you are ever going to get an edge....
Patience Grasshopper I have never taken less than 1 hour to get a bevel set on one of these, on a 1k stone....It takes a fair amount of honing to get them all in line and sharp...
Ohhhh yeah Circle, Rocking, Japanese, Swooping, Heel Forward and probably a few other strokes we haven't named are your friends with these
Bevel setting, bevel setting... and more bevel setting. Everything after that is gravy.
Setting a bevel CANNOT be overstated! I've literally spent 4 hours on 1K Shapton glass hone to get a nice bevel on that LOVELY Sheffield steel. Take your time, use a little pressure and then STOP.:D
Relax, do something else for a while, then go at it again. Time spent at this stage is time well spent. Once you have a bevel that is SHARP-and I mean stupid sharp only then can you begin to think about going to finer grits.
Your patience WILL be rewarded. Few if any modern razors will match a vintage Sheffield edge.:tu
By all means,use tape on the spine too.:gl:
the heavier the grind, the harder the honing, or so I have found.
how much tape do I put on the spine? or should I do like 3 then 2 then 1 or something like that? it seems it is getting better only thing is it is taking a loooooong time all those bathroom trips are well spent though:rofl2:
Assuming worse case scenario. eBay nightmare with chips, warped spine etc..
DMT's or similar fast cutting hones may help speed up the process.
Narrow hones are great with warped spines.
Don't know what grit you started with but you may be there a long time unless its coarser than 1k.
It's a PITA but as mentioned already well worth the final result.
I have heavy 7/8 W&B wedge and then an 8/8 W&B "true" wedge (ie if you lay it on the hone there is no air between the hone and the blade. I use 2 layers of tape on the 7/8 and 3 layers on the true wedge though there is no science in that.
One thing I find that helps is if the blade smiles or something else, I find it useful to hone in quadrants when I'm trying to remove metal. Ie go after the heel, middle right, middle left and toe end separately. Then kind of "clean up" and smooth it out with the edge first rolling x. and make sure the honing stroke on one of your quadrants matches your shaving stroke, so you are sharpening the part of the razor you primarily shave with.
I also got lazy and used lapping film on the true wedge and that was actually easier. It creates a heavy suction so it's easier to keep the edge down while you hone. like the edge off hones better but film was easier.
Would you tape the spine even for just touch ups on a wedge? I am receiving my first sheffield 7/8 wedge soon and want to know how to do touch ups on the razor. Is the tape only for bevel setting? You can see the blade in the classifieds page 3-4 april 6.
I would use the same amount of tape any time it touches the hone. I believe I have read some create a double bevel, but they go from no tape to more tape, not vice versa.
well I believe this wedge I own is pretty common it is the lather well shave well one, which I believe if it isn't a full wedge it is very close to it. I am getting some results from honing it and I am keeping it with one tape though some parts of the edge seem to have a larger bevel I will post pictures soon once I buy a camera like thise month or something to get some more appropiate feedback. Can someone post pictures of a wedge just to see what the bevel looks like please? thanks.
3 layers of tape
No tape :)
ok so I am getting a little bit frustrated, the middle of the blade is developing chipping I think its time to send it to a pro, and find a wedge I can actually practice on not one I am trying to shave with. Thanks for all the tips though I think its only a matter of practice.
why do you think it's chipping? too much pressure?
Good thread here on a problem W&B
http://straightrazorpalace.com/advan...ling-edge.html
I used to tape all my spines. Changed my mind now unless there's cosmetics like worked spines etc. involved.
This is what will help
600, 1200, 8000 DMT plates will whip any old Ebay wedge into shape, pronto.
http://www.woodcraft.com/images/products/148529.jpg
What about some circular strokes? Would that help on one of the big W&B's. I have an 8/8 W&B but it's not a wedge and is almost new condition.
I use circles ... and back and forth for setting bevels. Then go to the x stroke ASAP. Wedges are just tougher and usually smiling so you have to do Lynn's heel leading with the blade at a 45 to the hone or a rolling x stroke. They just take longer. Some guys put more than one layer of tape on but I don't like to do that myself. Personal prejudice.
Jimmy,
I have an old wedge that's beyond help that I practice on. I gave the circular strokes a shot and it removed steel FAST! I'm playing with it now doing more X pattern strokes than normal for me to see if that will do it. It actually seems to be working but it may be tomorrow before I check the shave aspect of it.
Thanks!
Phil
Phil, I do some circles, some back and forth and do a TNT and TPT. I may take a look at it with the 30x as well. I use a bit of pressure at that stage. Then go to the heel leading 45 degree x for the rest of it with enough pressure to keep it flat like Glen advises. I like one layer of electrical tape but some guys don't. Personal choice. Hope it works for you.
Jimmy that's one thing I'm doing pretty soon is get a microscope. We had two at the Mid Mo Meet and it was a revelation what the edges looked like. Not only entertaining but you got a great feel for what you were doing right and wrong.
I do use tape. I can't bear to mess up a spine with scratches or wearing it down. I'm pretty picky about the way my razors look. That's probably why I hesitate to do to many strokes which is probably hurting my honing results.
I am going to sell my Nortons in a couple of weeks and get the same grits in the Naniwa hones that Lynn is selling. We had those at the meet since Lynn was using them now. They had a nice soft feel that gave great feedback. The soft feeling wasn't a bad thing though it's not like the stone itself was real soft but it just had that feeling you want and they cut pretty fast. The prices are good as well. I'm going to get a 1000,5000 and 8000 and use my Escher to finish.
Take care,
Phil
I think patience is the key, also, not moving on too quickly. You will end up with dull spots and sort-of-sharp spots - it will probably cut hair but it won't be close.
In my experience, I would have loved to have something with a lower grit than the BBW.
Patience is absolutely important. I don't get in a hurry doing any of this whether it's honing, rescaling or whatever I may be doing. I've learned that taking you time pays off threefold over haste and having to undue a mistake.
I am making some headway I believe after reading some additional material on the forum. I don't believe I was using as many strokes on the 1000 and 8000 steps as I should have been on this particular razor especially.
Thanks,
Phil